• Taste Local: Where to Eat, Drink and Graze in Denmark, WA

    Taste Local: Where to Eat, Drink and Graze in Denmark, WA
    The Dam Denmark WA, dinner plates being carried by waitress to table.
    The Dam, Raintree Estate – Denmark WA

    A slow guide to eating well in Denmark, Western Australia, the lakeside cellar doors, the farm-gate cheese and chocolate, the long lunches, and the produce that tastes of the place it came from.

    There’s a particular pleasure in eating something that gives you a sense of place. It’s a pleasure that rewards slowing down, wherever you are. And around Denmark (known as Koorabup, the place of the black swan) there’s a quiet abundance of it . Cool-climate soil, ocean air, and a generation of small growers and makers, it truly is a paddock to plate experience you can taste.

    We’ve spent a fair bit of time eating and drinking our way around this stretch of the south coast, and we’ve come to a simple view: skip the guesswork. Here are the spots we return to, the makers worth the short detour, and the produce that makes a Heyscape kitchen feel like part of the region rather than apart from it.

    In town, Mrs Jones sits inside the beautifully restored old butter factory, and has long been a favourite for coffee, lunch and a glass of wine alike, with a contemporary art gallery next door worth wandering into. 

    Nearby, Kindfolk Coffee is a small, much-loved spot for genuinely good coffee and even better cakes, baked with care and lovely ingredients. 

    And Ravens is the one for a calm, casual start. Breakfast, lunch or a quiet coffee with no rush. 

    The Top Shed is the kind of find that makes a morning. It’s a small café on a working farm, a short way from Greens Pool, usually open Wednesday to Saturday from 8.30am. The draw is the daily build-your-own sourdough toasties, made with what’s in season, alongside good coffee and home-baked things. It’s unhurried and genuinely local, the sort of place where the view does as much work as the menu. 

    For something nourishing, The Green Pantry is the one we send people to. It’s a local favourite for a reason, organic, locally sourced, with house-made cakes and slices, savoury snacks and buddha bowls that look after a range of dietary needs. Seating is outdoors under cover, with a locally roasted organic coffee in hand and, every so often, a musician playing nearby. It’s an easy, unhurried place to ease into the day.

    If you’re staying in one of our cabins, you’re well placed for all of it, many sit a short, easy drive from town and just minutes from William Bay National Park, so you can fill a morning with coffee and a fresh loaf, then be back among the trees, or down at Greens Pool, before the day’s properly begun.

    If there’s one thing Denmark does beautifully, it’s the unhurried lunch with a view.

    The Dam is the one people talk about, a seasonally inspired, farm-to-table restaurant on the Birkbeck family’s Raintree Estate, a working farm just minutes from Greens Pool. The menu brings together fresh produce from the estate and the surrounding region, paired with local craft beers and Raintree wines, and there’s an on-site distillery crafting spirits from botanicals grown right there on the farm. Our cabins sit on this same farm, but you don’t need to be staying there to pull up a chair. Dogs are welcome in the outdoor areas, too.

    What makes a meal here special is how little distance the food travels. Raintree farms marron across its network of dams, and you’ll find it on the plate as a house staple, dam to plate in the truest sense. If you’d like to go a step further, Heyscape guests can book a marron catch-and-indulge or catch and cook experience: a hands-on catch and a look behind the scenes of the sustainable aquaculture system, before sitting down to your signature dish (or carrying your catch back to cook on the cabin barbecue). And in the colder months, the estate’s oak grove yields the acclaimed French black truffle, so from around June to August, you might be lucky enough to have it freshly shaved over your plate, just metres from where it grew.

    For a slower, lakeside afternoon, The Lake House overlooks its own lake and countryside, with a restaurant and cellar door offering lunch and picnic hampers to enjoy on the grass. Coffee and house-made cake on the deck is a fine way to lose an hour you didn’t plan to.

    Denmark has been making cool-climate red and white for over thirty years, and the cellar doors here are as much about the setting as the wine.

    Singlefile is the one most locals will send you to first, a multi-award-winning winery with a relaxed, seated tasting under towering eucalypts, lawns running down toward the lake, and gourmet platters in season. 

    Just west of town, Forest Hill is where the region’s wine story began — its vines, grown at the family’s historic Mount Barker site, are the oldest in the Great Southern, planted back in the 1960s. The Denmark cellar door is an easy, unhurried place to taste through their cool-climate range, with the well-loved Pepper & Salt restaurant upstairs, where chef Silas Masih weaves local produce and an inventive use of spice into one of the area’s most cherished menus. 

    Up on the Scotsdale Valley, you’ll find more cellar doors tucked among aged karri, several with tapas-style food and lawns made for an afternoon.

    And for something stronger, Nullaki Distillery sits high on Mount Shadforth with views over Wilson Inlet to the Southern Ocean — a small, working distillery where you can taste single-malt whisky matured in tawny and pinot casks, paired with local chocolate or a cheese platter.

    Settle in by the windows, let the karri and misty hills do their thing, and make an afternoon of it. (Cellar doors and restaurants keep their own seasonal hours, so it’s worth checking before you go.)

    This is where Denmark really rewards the curious. The Denmark Farm Gate Trail strings together some of the longest-running makers in the shire, and it’s an easy, lovely way to spend a day.

    A few we’d point you to: Ducketts Mill, whose cellar door is also home to Denmark Farmhouse Cheese — platters loaded with cheese made on site, the dairy sourced from a farm just down the road. Bartholomews Meadery, a family-run honey business with 300 hives, a glass beehive where you can spot the queen, award-winning mead, and home-made honey ice cream that’s reason enough to stop. And local chocolate makers like Pawprint Chocolates in town, for something to carry back to the cabin.

    Denmark is generous with hands-on, farm-y things to do between meals. The Denmark Animal Farm is a gentle morning out with the kids and animals to meet, and it sits handily on the same farm-gate run as the meadery and the cheese. It’s the kind of slow, simple outing that tends to become the day’s favourite.

    Part of the joy of an off-grid stay is cooking for yourself, slowly, with no particular place to be. Denmark makes that easy: the bakery, the cheese, the markets and the farm gates can fill a basket and a couple of unhurried evenings.

    A simple plan we like, gather a sourdough loaf, a wedge of farmhouse cheese, a local drop and a few vegetables from a roadside stall or the Sunday market. Then let the cabin kitchen and the outdoor BBQ do the rest.

    Or, if you’d rather skip the shopping and settle straight in, let us do the gathering for you. Our provision boxes bring the best of the region to your cabin door, ready to add to your stay when you book. The Gourmet Dinner Box is made for the barbecue, two Wagyu steaks from the property, paired with a house-made jus, butter, seasonal vegetables and a fresh salad. The Antipasto Box is for slower grazing on the deck, wine in hand: house-baked sourdough, premium cold meats, house-made crackers, muscatel grapes, two local cheeses, cured olives, a house-made dip and rich honey butter. And the Breakfast Box, curated by The Dam’s head chef, eases you into a slow morning with house-baked sourdough, fresh Denmark eggs, local avocados, dips and honey butter. (As with everything here, some items shift with the season and what’s available.)

    Dinner that tastes of the place you’re in, eaten where the view is, that’s most of the point.

    • Opening days and seasons matter here. Cellar-door food and the Animal Farm, in particular, is often seasonal — a quick call ahead saves a wasted drive.
    • The farm gates are scattered, so they’re best folded into a day of exploring rather than chased one by one. The Farm Gate Trail map is a good guide.
    • Plan a driver, or don’t drive at all. With this many cellar doors and a distillery or two, the wise move is to nominate someone or book a local tour.

    Eating well here isn’t about finding the most luxurious table. It’s about letting the region feed you — the grower down the road, the cheesemaker, the family at the meadery, the long lunch by the lake. That’s what we mean by taste the Great Southern.

    Planning a stay near Denmark? Our off-grid cabin sits on quiet farmland neighbouring William Bay National Park, on Menang Noongar Country — a short drive from most of the places above.

  • Hiking trails in the Great Southern

    Hiking trails in the Great Southern

    Hiking trails in the Great Southern

    Field notes from a Sydney couple living on the road full-time.

    When people mention hikes and trails in Western Australia, they tend to think of Bluff Knoll, or the renowned Cape to Cape or Bibbulmun Track. While these are all epic hikes to add to the bucket list, we wanted to shine a light on a few day hikes and trails that are just as noteworthy for your next trip to Denmark. We figured the best way to document these trails was to send Adam and Clara of @tourist_thebus, experienced hikers and full-time creatives living on the road, to a few trails close to our cabins. Afterward, we had a chat with them to hear about their journey so far and experience in the Great Southern.

    Wilderness Ocean Walk – WOW Trail in Denmark

    All photos are by Adam Spencer and Clara Groom of @tourist_thebus

    Hi Adam and Clara, tell us about yourself and your journey as full-time travellers.

    Hey, thanks so much for having us! We’re Adam and Clara, and we’re really excited to share a bit about our journey. Originally from the Northern Beaches of Sydney, we’ve been living on the road full-time for the past 2.5 years in our self-converted Toyota Coaster. Before we hit the road, Adam worked as an artist’s assistant and managed a studio, while I was a high school teacher. Adam’s been into photography since he was young, and I’ve always loved making videos and curating images. Given our interests, content creation was a natural progression for us. 

    In 2020, we started talking about doing a lap around Australia. At the time, Adam’s tiny Econovan (which barely fit him, let alone both of us) wasn’t going to cut it for long-term travel, so we decided to upgrade. We found a tourist vehicle with 22 seats and spent the next 1.5 years converting it into our home on wheels—a project that taught us so much and got us through the pandemic lockdowns in Sydney. 

    Switching to this lifestyle was hands down the best decision we’ve ever made. It’s wild how much our stress levels dropped and how much more content and balanced we feel since leaving Sydney. This journey has been one of self-discovery, and we’ve grown so much along the way—not to mention the endless breathtaking places we’ve explored and hiked to throughout Australia.

    How have you found living on the road? Are you enjoying being able to access the diverse landscapes in our National Parks in WA?

    We absolutely love living on the road. Sure, there are some challenges—like the occasional uncertainty or restrictions that come with the lifestyle—but honestly, the freedom it offers and the chance to experience new places always outweigh any temporary setbacks. As for the National Parks in WA, they are nothing short of incredible. We’re especially drawn to the diversity and remoteness of some of the parks up north. It’s such a contrast to the fast pace of Sydney, and we’re still getting used to the feeling of sometimes having entire beaches and trails all to ourselves. That kind of solitude is a rare treat, especially back home!

    What initially drew you to exploring local hiking trails?

    We’ve both always loved spending time in nature, and hiking has been a big part of our lives for the past ten years or so. When we started dating, many of our weekends were spent away from Sydney in Adam’s van, discovering new trails and enjoying nature. For us, exploring local hiking trails is one of the best ways to truly connect with a place. It gives you a deeper understanding of the area, especially when you reach a vantage point that offers a whole new perspective. One of my absolute favourite things about hiking is seeing a place from a different angle—it really makes you appreciate it even more. Monkey Rock in Denmark was a perfect example of this—the expansive coastal views from up there are absolutely breathtaking.

    Did you have any favourite trails while hiking the Great Southern? If so, what made them special?

    We both really loved the Bald Head Trail in Albany and Monkey Rock in Denmark. Bald Head is such an epic day hike—we love how the trail constantly changes, with different terrains and viewpoints along the way. It’s also a decent workout, with those steep inclines and declines really getting your legs going! What we loved most was how each section of the trail revealed something new, from stunning coastal views to hidden beaches with crystal-clear water. Even though Monkey Rock is a shorter walk, the views are absolutely incredible, especially at sunset. Sitting on the rock, watching the sun dip below the horizon, was such a special moment—it’s definitely the best view we had in Denmark.

    How did you prepare for big hiking days, physically and mentally?

    We always aim for a good night’s sleep, a decent breakfast, and plenty of hydration to set ourselves up for a big hike. If we know we’ve got a tough day ahead, we try to take it easy the day before, avoiding anything too strenuous so we’re well-rested and ready. Planning ahead is key, especially when we’ve got multiple hikes lined up over a few days. We always map out the length of each trail, the level of difficulty, and any major climbs, so we can pace ourselves and manage our energy throughout.

    Mentally, we’re both pretty headstrong, but I (Clara) have to admit, if there’s a steep incline or a scramble, I’m usually the first to feel it—definitely a reminder to take it slow and steady! We also try to stay positive during tough moments and remind ourselves that each step is one closer to an incredible view or a rewarding moment. It’s all part of the adventure!

    How was the experience of being so close to the trails, while also being able to experience the premium amenities of a Heyscape cabin?

    Such a game-changer! The convenience of being so close to the trails meant we didn’t have to travel far after a day of hiking or touring, letting us fully relax and soak in the experience. The outdoor tub was such a perfect way to unwind, and having the option to relax indoors in such a cosy cabin made the whole experience even more special. After a busy day of exploring, it was the perfect combination of adventure and luxury – we felt completely rejuvenated.

    Any particular highlights of staying at our Denmark cabins while hiking the Great Southern?

    Watching the sunrise over William Bay National Park from bed was pretty special. We couldn’t get over the ocean views. We haven’t come across an off-grid stay so close to the coast before, so staying in Cabin Sea was a real treat and such a great place to base ourselves as we explored Denmark and the surrounding areas. Thank you again for having us – we couldn’t have asked for a better experience! 

    What would you say to any other hikers thinking of staying at a Heyscape cabin to explore the nearby trails for a few days?

    We can’t recommend the cabins in Denmark enough! The proximity to William Bay National Park is incredible, making it so easy to access the epic trails right on your doorstep. Plus, Denmark is just a short drive away, so you’ve got the perfect balance of nature and convenience. Whether you’re out exploring the nearby hikes or simply relaxing with a view, the cabins offer the ideal base for any outdoor adventure. If you’re looking to immerse yourself in nature without sacrificing comfort, this is the place to be!

    You can find a full trails guide on Instagram or you can follow more of their journey over on their YouTube channel.

    Looking for a place to stay that’s just minutes from William Bay National Park? Explore Heyscape Denmark – thoughtfully designed cabins that provide access to the unique natural landscape.